The Korean Food Diary Takeover 🇰🇷
The best place to start dealing with all I have eaten in about 10 days at the 38th parallel

Welcome to Secret Breakfast / The best place to start dealing with all I have eaten in about 10 days at the 38th parallel, where napa cabbage rules, chicken gets fried, and dead molluscs still move at the rhythm of your favorite K-pop band
Hi there!
안녕하세요!
I spent a couple of weeks in Korea, and I was torn between the idea of sharing everything food-related I've seen (and eaten) and the absolute certainty that I had not have enough time to get to the core of that incredible place and people.
So what?
I decided to mix things up. A lot.
This is an issue where everything Korean happens everywhere, almost all at once—a cultural multiverse following the most iconic K-wave codes and trends we all know.
Things will be hot like the fried chicken at Kyochon 1991 (★recipe), or weird like cutting your noodles with a pair of scissors. Things will be fried and sweet like a honey and seeds hotteok pancake (★recipe), or unreal and cruel like an octopus sliced and still moving on your plate (be careful with the video).
I've warned you!
Piero
PS: I really could use some feedback about this issue, because 1) I wouldn't want to have fallen into some stereotype; 2) it's a very different issue from the previous ones and if something's wrong (or right!), I'd like to know.

Things you have to know about South Korea before we start

- 51.8 million people packed into a territory roughly the size of Iceland (357k people)
- Divided country since 1953 - South Korea is roughly half of the Korean Peninsula
- 4 distinct seasons with monsoon summers and freezing winters
- From war-torn nation to tech powerhouse in just 70 years
- Home to Samsung, LG, Hyundai - and the global K-pop phenomenon
- South Korea's map is said to look like a rabbit or tiger. You'll be the judge of that.
Let's roll.


Seoul's Quest for Connection: Four Ingredients, Countless Bonds
The first ingredient is pronounced geimhwa. It's written 게임화. It's what we call "gamification", alas, the application of game mechanics - like points, levels, and rewards - to non-game activities to increase engagement and motivation.
The second one is pronounced deokjil. It's written 덕질. It's what we call "fandom decorating", namely the practice of personalizing everyday objects like bags and backpacks and Crocs with K-pop idol merchandise - or photocards, pins, kawaii keychains and stickers - to express fan identity and create social connections in real life.
Then we have han (written 한), the complex emotion of deep sorrow, regret, and unfulfilled dreams, historically rooted in Korea's tumultuous past with invasions, colonial rule, wars, and division. In this country, even traditional recipes carry collective memory and pain.
Finally, there's jeong (정), the deep emotional bond and affection that binds relationships. In food, the way sharing meals creates lasting connections between people.
In Seoul, the populace appeared to me as a delicate texture, a tapestry woven from these four defining threads.
Across this peculiar fabric, images emerged: women and men meticulously guarding their skin from the sun, their belongings festooned with countless keychains and charms. They find refuge in the innocent world of super-cute cartoons and plush figures, wear matching outfits, reside in small, standardized condominiums, and forge connections with friends in intimate cafes, all while striving to overcome urban solitude, fierce competition, and the insidious impostor syndrome that a deeply meritocratic society instills.
Everything happens all at once, while the eyes of the girls and boys are pointing to their smartphones, looking for the next thread, the newest shop event (a gamified chance to get some prize), tomorrow's talk of the town. No, better: tomorrow's DM of the KakaoTalk.
Seoul - I noted in a moment of superficial and guilty idiocy - is a kind of totalitarian playground for adults kept in a state of eternal adolescence by social media. But I was harsh and wrong.
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Connection struck me as the ultimate key to understanding this country. It's a dual reality: the constant, sprawling connection this human swarm maintains via the Social Graph, juxtaposed with the human-physical connection they desperately seek with real people. This yearning is for moments where they can truly escape public rankings, the pervasive fear of judgment, and the cruelty of forced interactions.
Take this. In Korea, it is customary to pour drinks for others rather than yourself, especially when in a group setting. This act is a sign of respect and shows consideration for those you are with.
We can view this in two distinct ways. First: It's a charming display of romance, politeness, and class. Second: It's the frustrating experience of having water at your fingertips, yet being forced into a perpetual state of dependence, waiting for another to pour it for you (ok, gotcha: I'm an Aries).
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Nevertheless, in no other country have I more profoundly appreciated the joy of sharing a simple meal at the table. Banchan, the array of small side dishes accompanying rice in a typical Korean meal, effortlessly fills every available space, bringing a vibrant kaleidoscope of color and variety.
They make your taste buds feel alive throughout the meal.
Often, they are fermented foods like kimchi (★recipe), or pickled like the super yellow danmuji (★recipe). Here you feel the heritage coming from the past of this country, where women and men learned a way to keep vegetables alive through the seasons. Using time and salt as magical ingredients to make things taste better.
While in Italy we typically focus on a single plate, in Seoul, you experience a dynamic 180-degree engagement, your chopsticks dancing as you meet the gaze of your table companions. It's connection, again.
It's the kind of connection no app will ever give you. A crack in the digitalized reality that will make your heart beat at the rhythm of your new, shared memories.



✹Charlotte Cho, The Little Book of Skin Care: Korean Beauty Secrets for Healthy, Glowing Skin. Korea is still the world's capital of skincare, but they still fry a lot.


Ordinary acts of defiance
When Yeong-hye decides to stop eating meat, her simple act of refusal becomes a violent confrontation with a society that demands women's submission. Han Kang's devastating novel strips away the veneer of civilized life to expose the brutality lurking beneath domestic routine, transforming a woman's quiet rebellion into a haunting meditation on autonomy, madness, and the price of refusing to be consumed. Winner of the International Booker Prize, The Vegetarian matters because it shows how the most ordinary acts of defiance can reveal the most extraordinary truths about power, gender, and the human capacity for both cruelty and transcendence.
The Vegetarian by Han Kang
→ Shortplot: 🥬 🌶️ 🐷 🔥

10 things I ate in Korea (ok, they're more than 10), that you should cook at home
The 3 Best
🐙 Jjukkumi Gui - Spicy grilled octopus topped with melted cheese

🥞 Dongnae Style Green Onion Pancake - Scallion pancake from Dongnae district

🍜 Pyongyang Style Naengmyeon - Cold noodles in icy broth, Pyongyang style. Ice and pear make the difference

The Others
🍲 Bibimbap - Rice bowl with mixed vegetables, meat and fried egg on top

🥞 Bindaetteok - Crispy mung bean pancake, often with vegetables

🍜 Kalguksu - Hand-cut noodle soup in chicken broth

🥜 Hodu-gwaja - Walnut-shaped pastries filled with red bean paste. Gotta find some kind of mold working for you

🍙 Gimbap - Rice rolls with vegetables and protein wrapped in seaweed

🍞 Salt Bread - Soft salted bread, often with butter

🥚 Gyeranjjim - Steam-cooked scrambled eggs, fluffy like pudding

🍝 Bibimmyeon - Cold noodles mixed with vegetables and spicy sauce. And Ice, sometimes

🍜 Jjangmyeon - Noodles with black bean sauce and vegetables

🍲 Mukbap - Soup with acorn starch jelly, unique texture. Let's say unique texture.
I did not have
🌶️ Tteokbokki - Spicy rice cakes in sweet-spicy sauce
🥣Budae Jjigae - also known as Korean Army Stew
🍪 Dalgona Cookies - Honeycomb toffee cookies, crispy and sweet. You've seen them in Squid Game


When a Country’s Cuisine Becomes a Cultural Export
Ligaya Mishan / The New York Times
South Korea has sought to protect and enshrine its national dishes — while also sharing its wonders with the world.
